Synthetic Midlayer Jacket Review

This midlayer jacket review keeps growing, and we’ll have more to come, but the following review of three jackets gives you a snapshot of the versatility and broad spectrum of fabrics and focuses that companies are providing.

Years ago, before the advent of new lightweight breathable insulations, like Polartec Alpha, we would have to layer up with bulky fleece under our shells or puff jackets. Fleece is a great insulator, but it lacks good wind resistance and therefore does not lend itself to being a good outer layer on windy days. The new ultralight insulations look like feathery fleece, but act to trap heat more like down. These new hybrid jackets create a ‘micro climate’ with an incredibly wide temperature range. Worn over a super light wool or synthetic base layer, they stay on comfortably throughout a wide range of conditions, keeping you warm, dry and fully mobile.

We picked jackets that have a modicum of lightweight insulation but also plenty of stretch, either in panels or the actual shell fabrics (inside and out). These jackets are unique in that they work extremely well as an outer layer on days that are not super windy but cold enough to need core warmth. They are incredibly versatile and a must for every mountain person’s quiver, whether for climbing, ski touring, trail running or most any active mountain pursuit. We put them to the test rock climbing and dry tooling as an outer layer, and ski touring and ice climbing as a mid layer. 

Arcteryx

Proton Hoody

Price: $350
Weight: 11.3 oz. med
Fit: Trim fit, true to size, and layers easily under and over it.
Fabric: The shell fabric is silky and light, stretches nicely and allows moisture to easily escape to its surface and dry quickly. The insulation is the perfect amount for super cold skinning with just one layer underneath. It breathes and moves moisture out effectively but keeps us warm and dry all day. We never had to take it off, layering a shell or lighter puffy on top for the coldest descents.

Features: The pockets are perfect on this one, the chest pocket is super helpful for stashing a phone and the hand pockets are great for extra snack stashes and town. The hood fits great over a hat but not a ski helmet, which is expected on this one.
We loved this jacket for skinning in below zero temps. We never got sweaty and it is light, airy, comfy feel made it perfect for keeping on all day with only a shell or another light puffy worn over it for the descents. It is not, however, stretchy enough to be ideal for rock climbing in colder temps. Though it will work in a pinch, it’s a bit bulky and lacks the flexibility to fit well under a harness for cold rock cragging.

Outdoor Research

Deviator Hoody

Price: $229
Weight: 11.6 oz.
Fit: The trim fit is flattering and great for layering under other jackets.
Fabric: The shell fabric on this one is a bit loud and crunchy and lacks enough stretch to pull up the forearms while rock climbing. Fortunately, the fleece panels provide good stretch overall for climbing and great ventilation. The breathable insulation i.e., airy fleece, on the core is warm and comfy yet moves moisture well.  We found that the shell fabric over it however, is not as breathable as needed to keep the whole system dry when you overheat. It’s nice and wind resistant, but when worn under another shell for skinning in cold temps, it got steamy quickly.

Features: The center front zipper is way too light and separates from the get-go at the bottom. It feels like it will break at any time and leave you stranded with an open jacket. Though it looks sleek and lightweight, it feels like it cheapens the jacket overall and left us feeling vulnerable. We loved the fit and feel of this jacket, other than the tight sleeves, it was super comfortable on cold rock climbing and dry tooling days, just the right amount of warmth and stretch. It was also a great midlayer for ice climbing and cold ski touring days, though it was harder to regulate temperature as it did not seem to breathe or dry fast enough to keep it on all day under another layer.


Mountain Equipment

Switch Pro Hooded Jacket

Price: $299.95
Weight: 9.5 oz. 
Fit: We loved the contoured, close but stretchy fit of this jacket for both skiing and climbing. However, the cuffs could be a stitch more flexible for pulling up the forearm when climbing, and the hem width felt overly wide in the small size.  This would be fine if there was a drawcord adjustment to cinch it down but there is not, so any good breeze would flow up inside and quickly cool you down.
Fabric: The Octayarn insulation is light, airy and dries quickly. It feels super cozy warm when you first put it on but regulated heat extremely well. It’s easy to leave it on throughout your climb or activity without overheating or sweating up. The fleece panels are stretchy, great quality, breathe well, yet provide just the right amount of warmth for under another jacket or on its own.

The color blocking is a nice change from solids, but our women testers felt the blue/red combo was a little off and a bit too old school masculine. That said there are some other great options we loved for colors. Fabrics:   Overall, this easily becomes one you take on any adventure. Worn inside or out, it’s hard to even notice it as it fits and feels so comfortable throughout a wide range of temps and conditions while climbing, skiing, running, whatever your mountain pursuit.

Outdoor Vitals

Ventus Active Hoodie

Price: $179.97
Weight: 7oz.
Fabric: 3DeFX active stretch insulation, 2 way stretch 20d nylon shell and lining fabric.
Features: Perforated underarm vents, drop back, stretch cuffs with thumb loops.

Overall: 
While we absolutely love the fabric combination in this stretch insulated jacket for its warmth to weight balance, the overly trim fit in the torso and shoulders and tight forearms and wrist closure made it difficult to wear climbing rock or ice. The fabrics are incredibly breathable yet warm and light, making them ideal for many active outdoor pursuits. We liked it as a micro layer for ski touring on arctic days where the trimmer fit was not so limiting. Our testers would love to see the fit adjusted with more room overall to allow for enough freedom to rock climb on cool days and wear as a micro layer ice and alpine climbing. This fabric combination in an active puff jacket is unique and one of the best and most appreciated in our mix of test jackets.  

Outdoor Research

Super Strand LT Jacket

Price: $299.95
Weight: 10oz.
Fit: Regular (tight in the shoulders, wider in the waist)
Fabric: “Vertical X” synthetic fill insulation, 12d ripstop nylon shell fabric
Features: Zip hand pockets, left hand pockets doubles as a stuff sack, elastic binding on hood and wrist cuffs.

Overall: 
Our testers found this “synthetic” ultralight down jacket to be a nice luxury addition to their quiver for any actual mountain pursuits. While we liked it as a shoulder season kick around town and camp jacket, the lack of stretch made it hard to take on actual multi-pitch climbs, and though the synthetic insulation dries quicker than down, the price is a bit prohibitive for its lack of versatility. We found the ultralight level of insulation challenging. It’s best to think of it as a slightly insulated windshell, which again makes the price of entry quite high. While it was nice as a micro layer in ski touring in super cold weather, its fit made it again a challenge to use while actually climbing. 

Norrona

Falketind Alpha Insulated Zip Hoodie

Price: $239
Weight: 302g
Fit: Trim (thought they claim it to be regular)
Fabric: Polartec Alpha insulation, power grid fleece.
Features: Stretch fleece panels under the arms, side torso and hood, Alpha synthetic insulation on the core and arms. 

Overall: 
This “active insulation” layer is almost perfectly dialed with all the right features and the best quality and performance fabrics available. The fit is trim but ideal for wearing as a mid layer for ski touring or an outer layer for cooler climbing days. Similar in fabrics to the Mountain Equipment version of this jacket, this one has a trimmer waist/hip fit which is more effective under a harness and other layers. We loved this layer for almost any cooler weather endeavor from climbing to running and as a mid layer for backcountry skiing. Our biggest disappointment was with the cuffs. The fit of the cuffs up to the elbows is way too tight for climbing or any time you need to pull them up over your forearms. This limited our ability to use it rock climbing, which was honestly one of the most ideal uses for this layer. Our testers also felt that the wrist hole design added too much bulk and was not as appreciated as we would have liked. 

Header photo courtesy of Irmeline de Sadeleer

Disclaimer of Liability: Technical rock and ice climbing is inherently dangerous. Neither Broad Beta, LLC., nor any of its employees, shall be held liable for any improper or incorrect use of the information described and/or contained herein, and Broad Beta, LLC. assumes no responsibility for anyone's use of the information.
Any person using our gear in any manner is personally responsible for learning the proper techniques and good judgment. We strongly recommend that every climber seek instruction by a qualified professional.

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