Brette Harrington does it all…extremely well. Her resume includes groundbreaking solos, 13+ trad climbs, and mind-boggling alpine and winter climbs, not to mention ski descents, big walls, and hard sport climbs. Only her heart and dedication to excellence match her versatility in the mountains.

As you’ll hear today, Brette has undergone physical and mental hardships on her path to becoming one of the best all-around climbers of her generation. From numerous concussions and breaking her neck as a skier, to losing her life and climbing partner, Marc-Andre Leclerc, Brette has dug deep more than once to come back stronger than before. She is a true visionary and yet still down to earth and relatable. Her ability to articulate what drives her and what she has been through made this one of our most inspiring interviews to date.

In 2013, at the age of 23, Brette gained international climbing fame when she free soloed 2,500-ft Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia. At 32 years old, her first ascents span Alaska, Patagonia, the Canadian Rockies and beyond.Brette began her outdoor pursuits as a competitive skier in Lake Tahoe. After she broke her neck at the age of 20, she ultimately backed off from competitive skiing and pursued rock climbing. She met Marc-Andre Leclerc in her early 20s, and he introduced her to ice and alpine climbing. The two went on to complete numerous impressive alpine and solo ascents together, as well as various first ascents. In 2018, Marc-Andre went to climb the unclimbed north face of Main Tower in the Mendenhall Towers massif near Juneau, AK, and never returned. Brette shares her experience of grief with us and how she dealt with the loss of her life and climbing partner.Brette spent the years after Marc-Andre’s death deep in the mountains, continuing to build on the skills she built climbing with him. She opened routes on the Taku Towers on the Juneau Ice Field and made the first ascent of Life Compass (IV 5.10a M4+) in Alberta. In 2019, she climbed the biggest, hardest alpine route of her career at that time: a first ascent of the East Face of Alberta’s Mt. Fay that she and her partners named “Sound of Silence.” The same year, Brette went on to climb a line she and Leclerc had eyed together—an arcing crack on the East Pillar of Torre Egger, Patagonia. She named the 12c, 13-pitch climb “MA’s Visión.” She also completed her third 5.12 first ascent on the Chinese Puzzle Wall, a 500m big wall in British Columbia.

While Brette excels at winter climbing and all things alpinism, she is devoting this winter to climbing rock and living in Las Vegas, building on another set of skills that will allow her to pursue harder alpine objectives in the future.

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Follow Brette on Instagram @bretteharrington
Watch the award-winning film The Alpinist
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Episode hosted by Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe
Production and editing by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Brittany has dedicated her life to climbing ever since the first time she walked into a climbing gym in Fort Collins, CO, at 9 years old. She went on to become a competition climber and podiumed at a number of comps, including a Canadian Tour de Bloc. Over the past few years, Brittany has climbed some of the hardest trad routes in the United States, including East Coast Fist Bump (5.14a) in Sedona, Stingray (5.13d), and the Salathé Wall VI (5.13b) on El Capitan.

She can be found following the seasons in her van to different climbing areas year-round, while working from the road doing graphic design for Seattle’s Girls Rock Math (an organization that runs STEM-based summer camps for girls).

Brittany loves trying hard, overcoming challenges, and growing as a person through climbing and with her community. As you will hear in this episode, one of the things that keeps Brittany hooked on climbing is the fact that there is no finish line. Her grit, authenticity, and determination will leave you feeling inspired to unlock your true potential and set your sights on bigger goals.
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‍BrittanyGoris.com
‍‍Staying Hungry on the Salathe: an article written by Brittany
‍‍Brittany Goris in "Hooked on The Winds," a short film by Adam McClatchie
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‍Follow Brittany on Instagram @gorisb
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Episode hosted by Jeannie Wall and Cat Coe
Production and editing by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
‍Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

This story was written by Tory Dille and originally published on the Broad Beta website in September of 2024. It is a beautiful and vulnerable recollection of when Tory lost her mother to cancer. She later climbed Mount Olympus with two dear friends to spread her mother's ashes. Tory honors the unique landscape of the Olympic Peninsula with vivid descriptions, taking you back there with her.

Tory is an educator and an advocate for wildlife and wild places. She is currently in law school pursuing a career in environmental law with an emphasis on public lands and endangered species protection. She splits her time between small communities in Southwest Montana, Colorado, and the Pacific Northwest.

See photos of the lush Pacific Northwest landscape and of Tory and her climbing partners here, on the Broad Beta website.
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Written by Tory Dille. Follow her on Instagram @tory_dille
‍Recorded and produced by Cat Coe

Kelly Halpin is a professional mountain ultra runner and adventure athlete. She has a background in climbing, hiking, and snowboarding in the Tetons and surrounding wilderness. For the last 10 years, Kelly has merged her passions for running, climbing and exploring remote places by setting fastest known times (FKTs) around the world and establishing long technical routes in her home mountain ranges, typically solo and unsupported...

Kelly is also a talented illustrator. Be sure to check out the link to her art here. You can find her masterpieces on children’s books and beer labels and everything in between.

One of her most recent notable accomplishments includes besting her own FKT on the Wind River High Route, which we talk about a lot in this episode. This route is notorious for testing even the most experienced backpackers on multiday trips. The fact that Kelly has set the FKT on it twice is truly mind-blowing…this route is 97 miles long with about 65 of those off trail; just under 30,000 feet of elevation gain; and has a highest point at almost 13,400 feet. On August 1st of 2024, Kelly completed the route in 53 and a half hours.

Kelly's athletic and artistic accomplishments aside, she was a pleasure to talk to, laugh with, and learn about. She is as intelligent as she is athletic, and her passion for environmental science and natural history infiltrates her achievements.

Follow Kelly on Instagram @kyehalpin
Check out her website at www.kellyhalpin.com

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Episode hosted and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

The story on today's episode was written by Kimber Cross and originally published on the Broad Beta website in May of 2024. Check it out to see photos of Kimber's mountaineering and ice climbing expeditions. Kimber Cross is an adaptive climber who uses a custom prosthetic ice tool to climb waterfall ice around the country. She climbs alpine ice routes in her home state of Washington and was the first disabled climber to use a prosthetic ice tool on the Kautz Route on Mount Rainier/Tahoma.

Kimber was born with one hand—she adapted and modified to excel in sports as a kid and now in climbing as an adult. Kimber is a climb leader for The Mountaineers, a volunteer-based organization in Washington state that offers basic and intermediate courses and climbing trips. She instructs/leads field trips for The Mountaineers, and she leads private climbs year round on glaciers, rock, and ice.

When Kimber isn’t in the backcountry climbing or skiing, she is a National Board Certified educator who teaches kindergarten. Her passion is to teach children about the outdoors with her story of resilience and inclusion.

Follow Kimber on Instagram @kimberbelle‍

‍Watch the awesome short film Can't. Will. Did. about Kimber‍
‍Check out Kimber's website
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Episode produced and story read by Cat Coe

The one and only, the legend: Barb Eastman joins us on this episode. We're thrilled to hear her life story - and what a story it is. She began working in outdoor education at a young age, experienced trauma shortly into that career, and went onto become one of the most prolific climbers of her time.

While living in Yosemite in the 1970s, she became a big wall specialist, climbing 15 Grade Vs and Grade VIs over a span of about 6 years. She was on the first all female team to climb the Nose on El Capitan - ever! in 1977 - and also one of the first women to work as a Jenny Lake Climbing Ranger in Grand Teton National Park. She won an Award of Valor for a multi-day rescue on the Grand Teton.

Later, Barb moved to Salt Lake City and became a nurse and a mother. She shares with us about that transition and how it shifted her perspective on climbing and steered her toward new adventures. Barb drops some serious wisdom about staying active into her 70's, showing up for others during difficult times, and adaptability throughout different phases in life. We are so inspired by how she has lived her life and continues to prioritize fitness and time outside. Her backcountry canoe trips in NW Alaska (always at least two weeks!) and her big mileage backcountry ski days are goal worthy for anyone of any age.

To see photos from Barb Eastman and Molly Higgins climbing the Nose as the first female party in 1977, check out this awesome article with photos compiled by Lauren DeLaunay Miller on the AAC website: https://americanalpineclub.org/the-molly-higgins-photo-collection

Find Barb on Instagram: @tombarbpaul

In this story, originally published on the Broad Beta website in March of 2024, Alta Clark shares what it means to be an athlete - and what that means at mealtime. She articulates what so many women struggle with in sports: the impossible expectation to be both light and strong, both lean and unstoppable in the mountains.

Alta bravely joins a growing number of influential female athletes at the forefront of this conversation by sharing her own personal journey into, through, and out of disordered eating. Ultimately Alta shares that in leaving dieting behind, she has climbed her hardest grades yet and found more joy and energy.

Alta hails from Yellowstone's own backyard - Cody, Wyoming. She was raised a skier and a dancer, and she began rock climbing in her early adolescence. She also enjoys cooking, clothes, and becoming acquainted with unfamiliar places.

Broad Beta is extremely lucky to have Alta on the team. She helps with the website and social media, and as a contributing writer.
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Follow Alta on Instagram here:@gaining_altatude
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‍Be sure to check out the Broad Beta website for photos of Alta's adventures and delicious food by clicking here.
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Read by Alta Clark
Produced by Cat Coe
‍Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Quinn Brett and Kim Givler join us to share the epic story of a hand cycling expedition in the Grand Canyon (link to article with photos here). They encountered expected and unexpected challenges and triumphs during this inspiring trip. They make us laugh and captivate us with their resiliency and determination as they recount their group's attempt of the Rim to Rim to Rim.

Quinn Brett needs little introduction in the adventure sports world. Her accomplishments are extensive; we encourage you to check out her website at www.quinnbrett.com. Some highlights include the following:

-Tour Divide: First hand-cyclist to complete Canada to Mexico (25 days/2700+ miles), July 2021
-First female team to climb two El Capitan routes in a dayLurking Fear 5.11 C1, VI: free climb on-sight P4-5.12a, P5-5.12b, P6-5.12c follow, May 2014; 7:47 Women’s Speed Record, October 2014
-Spaceshot 5.13, Zion National Park (first free female ascent)
-Colorado Route, Fitz Roy: first ascent
Lake Catamount Olympic (3rd place age group, 13th overall female), August 2014

In October 2017, Quinn fell over 100 feet while climbing on El Capitan in Yosemite National Park.  She sustained a T11 spinal cord injury, leaving her paralyzed from the waist down.  She currently pursues cutting edge hand cycling expeditions and works as the Development Director for Unite to Fight Paralysis, combining her extensive backcountry and search and rescue experience as a Rocky Mountain National Park climbing ranger (she was the first female climbing ranger there) with advocacy work for accessibility and spinal cord injury research. Check out Henna Taylor's award-winning documentary about Quinn and her accident: An Accidental Life.

Kim Givler, DPT, joins us from Whitefish, Montana, where she works as a physical therapist and volunteers for her local adaptive sports organization, DREAM Adaptive Recreation. She completed an internship in spinal cord injury and neurologic trauma in South Africa while completing her DPT through Idaho State University in 2009. She then returned to her home state and now works in an outpatient clinic. She has advanced training in manual therapy skills including spinal manipulation and dry needling, specialized training in the management of persistent pain and neurologic trauma, and multiple strategies in the assessment and treatment of athletes. During her free time, you can find Kim in the mountains running, hiking, rock climbing, or skiing, preferably doing something new and interesting that scratches her itch for novel adventures.

Check out the links below to learn more about advocating for spinal cord research and accessibility for adaptive athletes:
CureCast Podcast
Unite to Fight Paralysis & The Freestyle Challenge
@quinndalina on Instagram
@kimgivener on Instagram

This story was written by Zoe Holmes and originally published on the Broad Beta website in January of 2024. How to Climb As a Wuss takes us to the other end of the spectrum from Rock Warrior's Way. It walks us through embracing climbing as a freaked out, Elvis-legging wuss.

We love Zoe’s toolkit for climbing as a wuss. Let’s be honest: her tactics are not only hilarious but all too relatable. She also writes about how she deals with her menstrual cycle inevitably affecting her head game.

Zoe grew up in London, but her family holidays were usually spent walking in the mountains. She took up climbing when she started her PhD in London in her mid 20s. She spent those years mostly climbing indoors except for the occasional trip outdoors. She moved to Sheffield in the UK during a lull in the pandemic. There, she really started climbing outdoors in earnest. She lived in Santa Fe, New Mexico, for a year and enjoyed the sandstone, basalt and granite of the southwest. She now lives in Lausanne (Switzerland).

Follow Zoe on Instagram here: @zedoheeholmes
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Hosted & produced by Cat Coe
‍Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Katy Kelly is a physical therapist and injury rehab coach for mountain athletes. In this episode, we talk about building capacity for both sport progression and injury prevention; starting a business; tools for dealing with fear in mountain sports; and more.

Katy's open-mindedness, intelligence, and application of her own lived experience as a mountain athlete make her an invaluable member of the physical therapy field. She exudes bravery and humility as she opens up about starting her own PT business.

Katy graduated from Idaho State University with her DPT in 2019. As a student she sought out opportunities to learn from incredible providers who specialize in working with runners, skiers, and climbers. She has lived and climbed in Idaho, Utah, California, and throughout Montana. Today, she is based in Helena, Montana, where she lives with her partner and their two dogs. She is a business owner, climber, and runner, and after 10 years of teaching snowboarding, she recently switched over to two planks. She helps mountain athletes remotely and in person to get back to their favorite outdoor activities after injury or extended time off.

Reach out to Katy for coaching at katykelly.dpt@gmail.comFind her on instagram at instagram.com/katelly.marie
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Are you interested in sponsoring the Broad Beta podcast or advertising on an episode? We are in search of funding to keep the platform and our stories alive. We would love to hear from you! Email us at admin@broadbeta.com.
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Produced, hosted, and edited by Cat Coe
‍Episode music by Holizna Radio
‍Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Our guest today is Darcy Chenoweth - a multitalented woman who grew up in Colorado and has spent much of her adult life thus far in and around Missoula, Montana. Darcy is one of those widely admired unicorns who combines pre-social media badassery and a mastery of good ole blue collar climbing with an authentic depth of character and genuine curiosity about the natural world around her. We love Darcy for her raw willingness to share her emotional experience as it relates to relationships and climbing.

Darcy has a background in ER nursing and wilderness medicine curriculum development, and as a professional artist. She is currently studying to become a Psychiatric Nurse Practitioner with a plan to focus on secondary trauma for rescue workers, healthcare providers, and mountain athletes. She works for the Responder Alliance providing resources for clinicians to prevent or address psychological stress injuries. She has also been involved with Mountain Muskox, a Canadian organization that provides facilitated group work for those who have experienced loss or trauma in the mountains. Last but not least, she is a boy-mom to 6-year-old Wolfgang.

In December of last year, Broad Beta held the BroadCast event at the Bozeman Ice Festival. The BroadCast is a night of slideshow presentations, and Darcy presented there about an expedition in Pakistan. Her photos and anecdotes were about so much more than climbing. She talked about partnerships in the mountains, vulnerability in relationships, holding uncertainty, and in the midst of it all still moving forward and making growth-oriented changes in her life.

Check out Darcy's ceramics and occasional musings at @studiochenoweth on Instagram.
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Hosted by Cat Coe and Jeannie Wall
Produced and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Ever dreamt of putting up first ascents in the alpine as an all female team? This story will inspire you to reach out to your favorite alpinista partner and make it happen. Irmeline de Sadeleer & Maren Salte Kallelid co-authored this story, which was originally published in Tidsskrift for Norsk Alpinklatring (Norwegian Alpine Journal) in 2021. It takes place in Northern Norway, in the picturesque valley of Bjærangen in Norland.

Irmeline and Maren's refreshingly vulnerable accounts of these badass adventures remind us that, though we can appear experienced and confident and all the things, most people experience self-doubt and anxiety in new territory.
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Huge thanks to Irmeline for translating this story to English so that we can all enjoy it.

Follow these awesome ladies on Instagram here:
‍@irmeline_ds‍
‍@marenkallelid

‍Be sure to check out the Broad Beta website for photos of Irmeline and Maren's adventure by clicking here.
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Hosted & produced by Cat Coe
‍Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Anna Keeling is the ultimate experienced skier, climber and mountain guide. She has been a mountain guide for the IFMGA for over 20 years. She grew up skiing in the Craigieburn Range in New Zealand, and she has completed ski descents and climbing ascents from Northern India’s Kedarnath Dome to Denali’s West Rib as well as wins in international adventure races and New Zealand’s Coast to Coast.

Based at Castle Hill Village in New Zealand in winter and in Salt Lake City, Utah (also in winter), the ‘Simper-Keelings’ (family of 3) make the most of their winters and brief spring/summers. In addition to her guiding business in New Zealand, Anna works as a Mountain Guide trainer and examiner for both the New Zealand Mountain Guide Association (NZMGA) and the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) and often contract guides for Alpine Recreation Canterbury. As an avalanche educator, she’s taught courses and advised the New Zealand Mountain Safety council, NZ Alpine Club, Utah Avalanche Centre, and Utah Mountain Adventures. Anna was the Ski Columnist for the Christchurch Press from 2011-2014. Her writing can be found in various outdoor publications and she was the key collaborator for the NZMGA’s mountain guide manual.Learn more about Anna here: https://www.annakeelingguiding.co.nz/
Follow Anna on Instagram @annakeelingguiding
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Hosted by Cat Coe and India Maxwell
Produced and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Jess Shade is a queer, cis woman and high altitude ski mountaineer. She is also a licensed clinical mental health counselor in Salt Lake City and Michigan. Jess works in private practice with individuals, couples, and organizations such as the Utah Avalanche Center, the American Alpine Club, and the LGBTQ+ Affirmative Psychotherapist Guild of Utah. She is also a 2023 ambassador for the She Sends Collective.

Her story, Going Local, takes us back to pandemic times, highlighting a massive adventure in her backyard - the Wasatch mountains of Utah. It also reminds us that, while we love our female adventure partners, sometimes adventures with our favorite bros are hilariously delightful and equally satisfying. Enjoy this inspiring account of Jess becoming the second woman and 12th person to ski every line in the famous The Chuting Gallery book.

Feel free to reach out to Jess at jess@alturacc.com
‍Find her on Instagram @shade_jess

Meet the lovely Miranda Oakley - mother, professional climber, writer, and guide. She was the first female to rope solo the Nose of El Capitan in under 24 hours and has completed various impressive linkups in Yosemite as well as first ascents in Patagonia. She is a Mountain Hardwear athlete.

She talks to us about balancing motherhood with a career as a high-level professional climber and guide. She discusses risk taking, what her climbing days look like with a baby, and postpartum recovery and training. She then takes us on a journey to Palestine and other parts of the Middle East, telling us tales of the climbing and people there. Miranda, who is part Palestinian, shares a unique perspective on growing up in the United States and deepening her connection with her heritage in adulthood through climbing.

Check out her athlete bio on the Mountain Hardwear website.
Read Miranda's  article Exposed in the Needles, which we refer to in the episode.
Sign up for a clinic with Miranda at her website.
Read her story Climbing in the Middle East on her blog.
Follow her on Instagram @miranda__oakley (that's two underscores).
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Hosted by Cat Coe and India Maxwell
‍Produced and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
‍Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Today you’ll hear Kelsey Sather and Claire Schaube read a story that they co-authored. Hard Moves was published on the Broad Beta website in March of 2023 - check it out to see photos of these ladies climbing hard and in their element.

Hard Moves is a quick, day-in-the-life glimpse into a years-long mentorship and friendship between Kelsey and Claire. Kelsey began working with Claire through Bozeman’s Child Advancement Program when Claire was in 4th grade. Claire had begun showing potential as a gifted writer at the time and she needed an extra challenge. Claire’s mom proposed the idea of working with Claire to Kelsey, who was already an established writer in the Bozeman community. Naturally, Claire and Kelsey also began climbing together as the years passed.

These women have gone on to write many stories together, mostly focusing on the female athlete experience in the outdoors.

Kelsey Sather is an author of fantasy and nonfiction. Check out her novel, Birth of the Anima, which was published in March of 2021, as well as her website and other works at Kelseyksather.com.

Claire Schaube, also born and raised in Bozeman, started climbing competitively at age 12. She is a ski instructor at Big Sky, and finishing up her senior year at Bozeman High. Hard Moves is Claire’s second published piece; she published her first piece in fifth grade with Kelsey as her editor.

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Produced & edited by Cat Coe
Story read by Kelsey Sather and Claire Schaube
Episode music by Holizna RadioC
onclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Lorna Illingworth joined us back in August of 2022 to read her story Reflections on a Big Wall Partnership. Now, the climbing phenom is back and we're picking her brain about all things YOSAR - how she got there and how it helped her unlock such huge potential as a climber.

Lorna is a humble, quiet master of all rock types. She has ticked off 5.13 sport routes at Smith Rock, over 20 ascents of El Cap, and major alpine routes (think Fitz Roy and big routes in the Cirque of the Unclimbables). Lorna honed her climbing skills while living in Yosemite and working on the Yosemite Search and Rescue Team. At the time, she was one of the few women in the Valley pursuing aid climbing. We'll hear about Lorna's evolution as a YOSAR member and eventually her transition from YOSAR to becoming a psychiatric nurse.

Tie it all together by listening to Episode 9: Lorna Illingworth - Reflections on a Big Wall Partnership wherever you get your podcasts. Check out her story on the Broad Beta website to see mind-boggling photos of Lorna and her climbing partner Holly on El Cap.

Lorna on Instagram > @lornaki
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Hosted by Cat Coe and Broad Beta Co-Founder Jeannie Wall
Produced and edited by Cat Coe
Episode music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

Lauren Smith is an accomplished climber hailing from Bellingham, Washington, and now based in Bozeman, Montana. She grew up hiking, skiing, and biking with her family in the Pacific Northwest. She moved to Arizona for a year to pursue aeronautical science in hope of becoming a commercial pilot; that plan drastically changed when she was introduced to climbing.

She moved back to Bellingham to pursue mountain guiding and travel in her van to broaden her climbing skill set. Since then, she has fully immersed herself in ice and mixed climbing with the goal of applying those skills to big mountains. She currently works as an instructor and guide for the American Alpine Institute.

In this story, Lauren shares how she and her best friend, Tali, took their climbing partnership to the next level by climbing Cosmiques Arete in Chamonix for their first alpine adventure together outside of guiding and AMGA courses. Lauren reminds us how important patient, safe, and supportive partners are when the going gets rough.

Check out beautiful photos of Lauren and Tali's alpine pursuits on the story's page on the Broad Beta website. Follow Lauren on Instagram at @lauren.olivia.smith.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
‍Story read by India Maxwell
‍Intro music by Holizna Radio
Conclusion music by Rocky Marsiano

It's here. Broad Beta's first interview. We couldn't be more excited to dive in with our story writers and  get to know them better. Our first guest - Amy Jordan - was featured in episode 10 reading her story Painting Myself Out of a Corner.  Why do we think Amy's so cool? She's a wicked smart hydrologist who also holds degrees in astrophysics and pours over scientific literature in her free time. She has 20 years of experience both trad and sport climbing, and she makes beautiful plein air paintings.

Amy went from climbing 5.13 one day to, later that week, experiencing a rare injury called SIRVA (shoulder injury related to vaccine administration). She was forced to give up climbing for the better part of 3 years. She underwent multiple surgeries and extensive therapy to deal with this painful shoulder injury. In the process, Amy rediscovered a long-buried love from her childhood: painting. She inspires us to try new creative expressions in pursuit of the flow state when injury forces us to redirect our energy and focus.

Check out her article on the Broad Beta website and see her beautiful paintings by clicking here.

For information about SIRVA, Amy has provided the following links:
‍Don't aim too high: avoiding SIRVA‍
‍http://sirvasurvey.org/resources
‍And for more information about correct vaccine administration, see here and here.
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Hosted by Cat Coe and India Maxwell
Produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio

Meet Amy Jordan. This phenom from New Mexico holds undergraduate and masters degrees in astrophysics and a doctorate in hydrology. Oh yeah, and in her spare time she climbs 5.13.

Amy shares a unique twist on the common story of dealing with injury as a climber. The mechanism of her injury was anything but common and led to a dark period of hopelessness. Amy teaches us about a condition called SIRVA (shoulder injury related to vaccine administration) and the long period of recovery that she endured. Ultimately, Amy climbed out of the darkness by rediscovering a passion from her youth. Her search for knowledge related to her condition and her motivation to find the flow state outside of climbing are nothing short of impressive. She is a true inspiration to any athlete struggling with injury and mandatory downtime.

Amy's story, Painting Myself Out of a Corner, was published on the Broad Beta website in August of 2022. Check it out to see photos of her beautiful paintings.

Tune in soon for an INTERVIEW - our first interview! - with Amy.

For more information about SIRVA, including peer-reviewed medical literature, see http://sirvasurvey.org/resources. For information about correct vaccine administration, see here and here, for example.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Guest introduction by India Maxwell
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Tune in to meet Lorna Illingworth, a climbing phenom who was the only woman on the Yosemite Search and Rescue (YOSAR) team when she began in 2006. Her time in Yosemite included 5 years of service on YOSAR and over 20 ascents of El Capitan via 16 different routes. In the early 2000s, she and her partner Holly were one of the only female teams climbing consistently on Yosemite's big walls.

Lorna now works as a psychiatric nurse in Bend, Oregon, where she enjoys free climbing at Smith Rock and skiing in the Cascades. Her story, published on the Broad Beta website in July of 2022, is a beautiful and honest portrayal of the evolution of climbing partnerships, with Yosemite and El Capitan as the backdrop. She reflects on how accidents and different phases of life change these very important partnerships.

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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

We are so excited to have Jewell Lund on this episode. Originally from Salt Lake City, Utah, Jewell tells us about her path into climbing, the partnerships that impacted her life, and her decision to step away from climbing in recent years. She reads her story Polarchrome, which was published on the Broad Beta website in March of this year. Check it out to see the mind blowing pictures of her and Chantel Astorga in Alaska.

What Jewell won’t tell you about herself is what a badass she is (as well as a truly talented writer). As you’ll hear, her foray into the high alpine was short but sweet and incredibly impressive. For example, she was part of the first all female ascent of the Denali Diamond, arguably one of the most difficult routes on Denali.

In recent years, Jewell has been working toward getting her PhD in snow hydrology while living in Fort Collins, Colorado. Please welcome Jewell and enjoy her beautiful story.

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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Tune in to meet Sarah Hueniken, one of the world's greatest ice and mixed climbers. She was the first North American female to climb M11, M12, M13, and M14 - grades most winter climbers only dream of climbing. She and her partner, Will Gadd, became the first to climb Niagara Falls in 2015. She is an ACMG alpine climbing guide and lives and works in Canmore, Alberta, Canada.

In this episode, Sarah recounts her mission to link three ice and mixed climbs in the Waiporous Cirque in Canada after losing her dear friend Sonja in an avalanche at one of her women's ice climbing camps. She paints a beautiful picture of her complicated relationship with the mountains in the wake of the accident. Sarah ultimately co-founded Mountain Muskox, an organization that supports those who have experienced tragedy in the mountains (www.mountainmuskox.com). To follow Sarah through this period of her life, check out the incredible documentary, Not Alone, by Heather Mosher - soon to be available for viewing online.

‍Read Sarah's story online at BroadBeta.com by clicking here.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Lizzie Gill joins us today to share her story Skiing and Hunting: a reflection on growing up hunting, living in Paraguay, and the evolution of her relationship with eating animal protein. Lizzie grew up in Bozeman and nordic ski raced for the University of New Hampshire. She holds Bachelor of Science degrees in Sustainable Agriculture and Food Systems and International Affairs. After college she served two years as an Agriculture Extension Peace Corps volunteer in Paraguay.

Lizzie currently works as the Local Foods Specialist at the National Center for Appropriate Technology. She has performed extensive research on squash diversity in Costa Rica and Peru and is fluent in Spanish and Guarani.

This is one of two stories released on the podcast this week from the January 2022 issue of BroadBeta.com. Don't miss Ruby Zitzer's story, Dance with the Mountains, about a ski traverse with Lizzie and Katie Gill, in episode 5 this week.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Today we have the pleasure of hearing from Ruby Zitzer - a Bozeman native and longtime mentee of our co-founder Jeannie Wall. Ruby grew up competing as a nordic skier, and she now lives in Sun Valley, Idaho. She spends her winters working for Sun Valley Heli Ski and teaching avalanche awareness courses through the Sawtooth Avalanche Center. In the summer she works as a road, mountain, and gravel bike guide. She has a degree in English Writing and Human Development from Montana State University.

Tune in to hear about Ruby's childhood introduction to skiing and adventuring. She'll also read her story, Dance with the Mountains: a beautiful recollection of a ski traverse in the Sawtooths with her lifelong friends and ski partners Lizzie and Katie Gill.

This is one of two stories released on the podcast this week from the January 2022 issue of BroadBeta.com. Don't miss Lizzie Gill's story, Skiing and Hunting, in episode 6 this week.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Tune in to meet Cat Coe, Broad Beta's audio content producer. Cat lives in Lander, Wyoming, where she works full-time as a flight nurse. In this episode, Cat reflects on the quote, "Lesson from a mountain: It's our birthright to take up space and look f**king majestic." She remembers her time working as an ICU nurse during Covid, the grief it brought, and how she rediscovered her grit while guiding a trip on Mt. Rainier.

Since 2003, climbing has taken Cat throughout the Rockies and abroad, though her favorite missions have been in the nearby mountains of Wyoming and Montana.  She picks adventure climbs over five-star climbing areas and loves to talk her partners into long walks and good old-fashioned choss fests. Cat brings experience as a mountain guide and climbing instructor to her roles working with Broad Beta.

Read the story and see photos on BroadBeta.com by clicking here.

~Quote from Emily McDowell's Em & Friends greeting cards
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Tune in to meet Anju Samuelson. Originally from Germany, Anju found her passion for climbing when she was 19 years old and traveling in Chile. She continues to love combining travel with climbing, and she now works as a mountain guide based in Bozeman, Montana.

In this episode, Anju shares her unique perspective on climbing Lurking Fear, a route on El Cap, with Leslie Gains-Germain and Jeannie Wall (Broad Beta's co-founders). She takes us through the fears she experienced while climbing her first big wall and the nuances of partner dynamics and decision-making in high-stakes terrain.

This episode is part III of a three-part series, in which each of the three women share their versions of the adventure and its unexpected ending. Read these stories on BroadBeta.com by clicking here.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Leslie Gains-Germain is one of the co-founders of Broad Beta along with Jeannie Wall. An under-the-radar badass, Leslie is reserved, analytical, and humble while climbing at an impressively high level on both rock and ice. On the clock, she works for an environmental consulting agency modeling radioactive waste. In her spare time between that and recently sending her first 5.13, she works on finances, technical tips, and web design for Broad Beta. She splits her time between Bozeman and Santa Fe.

Complete with an intro from Jeannie Wall, Leslie's story walks us through the highs and lows that often accompany a big wall endeavor, the nuances of team dynamics, and lessons learned from an accident high on El Cap.

This episode is part two of a three-part series, in which each of the three women share their versions of the adventure and its unexpected ending. Read these stories on BroadBeta.com by clicking here.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano

Tune in to meet Jeannie Wall, co-founder of Broad Beta. Jeannie epitomizes the term mountain athlete, with high-level accomplishments in a mind-boggling array of disciplines from nordic racing to mixed climbing. She is the ultimate mentor, sharing her knowledge and stoke with climbers of all levels. In this episode, Jeannie shares a story about climbing Lurking Fear, a route on Yosemite's El Capitan, in a team of three women.

Complete with an introduction from Leslie Gains-Germain, her partner in all things Broad Beta and climbing, the story not only gives us a uniquely detailed perspective on big wall climbing, but also reminds us of the importance of trusting our instincts.

This episode is part one of a three-part series, in which each of the three women share their versions of the adventure and its unexpected ending. Read these stories on BroadBeta.com by clicking here.
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Hosted and produced by Cat Coe
Music by Holizna Radio and Rocky Marsiano